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The geometric wooden frame theme continues in the open-plan lobby on the fourth floor, which is home to a lounge and café plus a small design shop selling chic souvenirs (from rice crackers to textiles). There is a DIY feel to the services at this hotel. Pyjama rental (for 200 yen a person) and free toothbrushes are available by the lobby lifts, while innovative OMO vending machines sell everything from drinks to underpants, slippers, sunscreen and yuzu bath salts. Washing machines and microwaves can also be found in communal areas. Staff are friendly and remarkably unstuffy: guests can sign up for a variety of daily 'ranger' tours of the local area, visiting a string of colourful hidden restaurants and bars. Bear in mind staff dress up in safari outfits for these excursions so it's perhaps not for the faint-hearted – but nonetheless a good opportunity to explore off-the-beaten track venues and chat with locals. In true Japanese style, shoes are slipped off at the entrance of each of the 125 rooms, which are pretty much identical in size and layout. The spaces have a contemporary (and compact) Japanese aesthetic – thanks to the light wood scaffolding-style frames, walls in soft hues of green, blue, red or grey (as inspired by the four seasons), tatami-style flooring and round mirrors. Clean-lined wooden stairs lead to a raised sleeping area, which overhangs a day bed-style seating area (tall people may have to watch their heads).
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Nihonbashi Bridge is infamously covered by an overpass, but earlier this year, a project was approved to move that unsightly stretch of expressway underground and restore the once-iconic view of the bridge. A great way to escape the summer heat in Nihonbashi is to take in a noh-kyogen performance and sushi meal at Suigian , the new dinner theater lounge owned by Hidetomo Kimura. Kimura is the brain behind the Eco Edo Nihonbashi Art Aquarium, which is now in its seventh year and already a Nihonbashi summer institution. Noh-kyogen refers to two styles of theater, noh and kyogen, which are often performed on the same stage. Noh is actually the world’s oldest extant form of theater, a slow, serious style of musical drama involving supernatural elements. Kyogen is lighter and funnier, a form of comic theater used during noh intermissions. A scene from the kyogen performance Bou Shibari Photo: JOSHUA MEYER While Suigian showcases a different type of performance every day, a typical kyogen performance would be "Bou Shibari" (“Tied to a Pole.”) In order to safeguard his alcohol stash, a samurai master tricks his two servants, Taro and Jiro, into getting tied up. However, they still manage to raid the liquor cabinet while he is gone, singing and dancing and drinking themselves silly. At Suigian, an English interpreter comes out on stage to explain this scenario. Even if you are not fluent in Japanese, it is genuinely amusing to watch the performers’ mannerisms and hear their lively voices, especially when you have one of the actors modeling his toothy kyogen laugh for you beforehand and showing off his “triple axel jump, bushido style.” Suigian only brings in trained professional performers who are capable of upholding the centuries-old tradition of noh-kyogen as it was meant to be performed.
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